One side up
At the 2009 Miss Universe coronation, some were inevitably biased, inclined only to one specific side. Not even Vogue’s André Leon Talley raised a brow of disapproval at the sight of the obvious commonality.
Or he could have anticipated the parade of bias silhouetted evening dresses, sewn with one-sided necklines. He won’t be the editor-at-large of the magazine and at the same time, a judge of the pageant just for nothing.
It only proved that the elegant tandem of bias and one-sided (others call it Venus after the Roman goddess) cuts are not bidding goodbye yet. They’re here to stay — longer.
Since their wardrobe was provided by Carlos Alberto Haute Couture, personal styling became an instant drama on the pageant date, Aug. 23, Sunday (Monday morning in the Philippines). It was held in Nassau, Bahamas.
Like Miss Kosovo, Gona Dragusha, who spent her moments on stage as if she were on the red carpet. Her pretty face was definitely her lucky charm, but her dress was perfect package: a bejeweled sash that defined her waistline, one-sided neckline that speaks of her updated taste and her color choice respects her skin.
Above all, it has garnered converts. “For me, it was the gown of Miss Kosovo that really stood out among all the finalists. It also made me realize that ‘less is more.’ Although the dress had fewer details, it still gave a great impact. The color was also very regal,” says fashion designer Wendell Quisido, who has done dresses for Miss Cebu candidates.
Miss Dominican Republic, Ada Aimee de la Cruz, handpicked an elaborate fashion. Possibly, it caused sleepless nights to seamstresses who worked on sewing the beads on her bodice and pasting floral cut-outs on her one-sided necklines.
“I think it’s the goddess look that beauty queens often want. The bias cut and the Venus neckline offer glamour in the traditional sense,” comments Manila-based designer Tippi Ocampo.
Meanwhile, others relied on the flow. What better option do you have in giving the fabric a natural flow than cutting it on an oblique pattern often called bias?
Some might raise their brow, but the bias has evolved into quiet a handful of styles. But take it from the winner. Miss Venezuela, Stefania Fernandez, opted for a bouffant skirt, detailed with layers of ostrich feathers.
Miss USA, Kristen Dalton, pulled a turquoise empire dress with soft ruching on the bust area while Miss Puerto Rico, Mayra Matos Perez, had less frills in her coral pink strapless.
Both the bias and the one-sided silhouettes have undergone a number modifications, but Jun Escario, who regularly designs for beauty titlist Ruffa Guttierez, finds novelty in these simple deliveries.
“Bias always falls better than going with the grain. Shapes and drapes are better. One-sided is not commonly used. It’s the sea of V-neckline and strapless gowns that makes the one-sided stand out.”